It’s not always necessary to replace the carpet in a vintage car with a new one that may not fit or look right. Here’s how to fix your old carpet in convincing fashion. Spread waterproof glue on the hole. Pick up the carpet fibers with a pair of tweezers. Press the carpet fibers in the hole. Overfill the hole with the carpet fibers and place a paper towel over the area. Weigh down the paper towel with books or another heavy object and allow the glue to dry for several hours.

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Tile floors have a lot going for them. They're handsome, durable, and easy care.

To add even more to their appeal, individual floor tiles are also relatively simple to repair or replace if they become damaged. This means that you'll avoid the bother - and the.Here are 8 common tiled floor problems and their DIY solutions:. Small chips in tile.

Find a shade of to match the tile (with today's range of offbeat polish colors, that shouldn't be too difficult - and you can mix shades to get the hue you're looking for). Dab it delicately onto the chipped spot. If the color of the tile floor repair darkens over time, remove with acetone and redo this quick fix. Larger chips or holes in tile.

Pack large chips or holes in your tile floor with ceramic filler, blending colors as necessary to make an inconspicuous patch job. When dry, sand smooth and protect with a coat of lacquer. Cracked tile.

Use siliconized caulk to fill in tile floor cracks. If the caulk is unsightly after drying, you can paint it so that it blends in with the tile design. Oil- or urethane-based paint will stand up best to foot traffic. Broken tile. Tiles that are cracked badly or have missing chunks need to be replaced.

In an ideal world, you'd have ordered extra tiles as spares when the floor was installed. If that didn't happen, remove the broken tile piece and try to match it at a tile supplier's. Tile styles come and go, so you may not find an exact lookalike. In that case, consider creating a decor accent such as a.

Outdated or worn tile. If your floor's begun to show signs of wear or you've grown tired of its outdated style, refresh it with paint. Prepare the floor by scrubbing well, followed by lightly sanding the surface. Use a roller or sprayer to cover the old tile with oil- or urethane-based paint. Cure for at least 24 hours and then seal your newly painted tile floor with floor finish.

Loose tile. Pry up loose floor tile with a chisel or putty knife.

Work slowly and carefully to avoid breakage. Remove the old adhesive from the subflooring. Then coat the subfloor and the underside of the tile with new adhesive before replacing the tile in its former location. Stained, crumbling, or cracked grout. Grout problems not only make your tile look ugly, they can be a warning of bigger trouble to come. Like loosened adhesive or water penetration leading to rot in. Nip these in the bud; remove and replace old grout.

Avoid walking on fresh grout 48-72 hours to allow curing; then seal against dirt and damp. When replacing grout in a shower stall, wait an extra 24-72 hours so both grout and sealant dry thoroughly before you use the shower. Tile floor that requires complete replacement. Would you like to completely replace, rather than repair, your tile floor? Here's a trick to make the process easier. If the existing tiled surface is reasonably sound, just clean it, dry, and apply your new tiles right on top.

You'll save the time, trouble, and mess of removing the old flooring.If you'd prefer not to DIY, for expert tile repair and replacement.Laura Firszt writes for.

To burnish the surface very smooth, use a steel trowel (shown) on the final few passes Photo by Kenneth ChenSimply pouring wet concrete into a hole in your driveway, sidewalk, or basement floor won't make for a lasting repair. You have to prep the edges correctly and use the right materials.

Holes 1 inch or deeper require a concrete mix with coarse, crushed-stone aggregate, which bonds well with existing concrete. Shallower holes need a sand mix. Whichever type you use (they're both available at home centers), follow these steps.1. Use a hammer and a cold chisel to level the bottom of the hole and undercut its sides slightly so the patch can't pop loose. Vacuum, then clean the area with water and a wire brush. Wipe clean.2.

Brush on a concrete bonding liquid, sold in bottles at home centers.3. While the bonding agent is still tacky, mix the concrete with water and scoop some into the hole. Press it into the corners and against the edges with a trowel. Now fill the hole completely, leaving some material mounded on top.4. Level the patch with a straight-edged board at least a foot longer than the width of the hole.

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Move it back and forth in a sawing motion. This will also push down the aggregate and make the final smoothing easier. When the surface loses its wet sheen and feels firm to the touch, smooth it with a magnesium or wood trowel, which won't interfere with curing. Work the trowel in a fanning motion to blend the edges with the existing concrete. Do this several times as the mix cures.

To burnish the surface very smooth, use a steel trowel (shown) on the final few passes. For a texture, pull a damp push broom over the concrete. Wait at least 24 hours before walking on the patch and a week before driving on it.Tip: The temperature of the existing concrete must remain above 50 degrees for the first 24 to 48 hours after the patch is applied. The cooler the weather, the longer the curing time.